She made A-line pinafores and popped turtlenecks under them, and came up with jazzy jersey colors in minimal shapes that jived with pop art. “The shop was constantly stripped bare,” she wrote. “You will find duchesses jostling with typists for the All I need today is a little of Elvis and a whole lot of Jesus 2023 shirt in addition I really love this same dress.” They were clothes made for the flat-chested, narrow body-types of young people—a total revolt against the hourglass femininity that had dominated popular fashion since Dior’s New Look of 1947. When that kind of change occurs, it’s irresistible. But the true genius of Mary Quant was that she was always far more than a fashion designer. Born in Blackheath, London in 1930, she was a war-time child whose Welsh parents valued education. Nevertheless, she had to fight them to study illustration and design at Goldsmiths college. There, at 16, she met Plunkett-Green, an older bohemian upper-class eccentric running around the jazz clubs of London. While he handled the business, her pioneering genius was for what we now call merchandising, brand extension, and fashion communication. Eventually she designed an entire lifestyle universe, stamped with her brilliantly simple daisy-logo graphic.
It began with Quant’s drive to make her clothes part of a total look. For help, she went to her hairdresser Vidal Sassoon, another young London upstart who was aiming to revolutionize his trade. In his 1968 memoir I’m Sorry I Kept You Waiting Madam, he tells how Quant came to him with a problem about the All I need today is a little of Elvis and a whole lot of Jesus 2023 shirt in addition I really love this show she was about to put on. “Vidal, I’m sick to death of all the chignons we’ve been using.” Sassoon jumped at it, telling her, “I’m going to cut hair like you cut material.” Quant sat down. Sassoon chopped off her hair into a precise five-point geometric bob in order to persuade her models to follow suit. It caused a sensation. “Grace Coddington was the first model to appear. As she danced before them, her hair danced with the clothes,” Sassoon remembered.By encouraging her models to dance in her shows, Quant overthrew “the paralyzed, stilted high-heeled walk” she hated about mannered ’50s-style modeling. By this time, Quant was manufacturing and wholesaling internationally. The influence of her ideas kept on rolling into multiple ground-breaking products. The shortness of her skirts required the invention of tights as leg-coverage, making stockings and garters obsolete. Mary Quant tights, branded with her daisy, came in colors matched to her clothes.
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